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倫敦時尚：美食實驗師
更新時間 2013年 6月 24日, 星期一 - 格林尼治標準時間10:14
Bompas & Parr的兩位年輕創始人在英國實驗美食協會展覽上。
英國實驗美食協會（Experimental Food Society）裏，聚集了一批引領飲食界潮流的奇才，大多常駐在倫敦。他們不是廚師，而是美食藝術家，是魔術師、建築師、煉金術士、科學家、社會學者……他們有一個共同的名字：美食實驗師。
他們通過跨界的實驗，融合科學和藝術，無時無刻不在進行著美食創新，挑戰飲食常態，將人們對食物的認知推向新的高度。Bompas & Parr - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bompas_%26_Parr
Bompas & Parr
was founded June 2007 by Sam Bompas and Harry Parr and creates food art
using gelatin desserts, colloquially called jellies. Named after the果凍柔韌的觸感、晶瑩的質地、繽紛的色彩、百變的造型，給人強烈的視覺衝擊。Barbican藝術中心、英國現代藝術學會、倫敦建築節、諾基亞、倫敦大學、V&A博物館、Selfridges百貨商店等都喜迎過Bompas & Parr的果凍建築品。
Bompas & Parr的年輕創始人，被《獨立報》評為「十五位將定義英國藝術未來的人之一」。
Kew Gardens pond transformed into giant fruit salad by Bompas & Parr
'Architectural foodsmiths' Bompas & Parr inject a dose of fruity fun into Kew's summer festival of edible plants
Bromeliad bliss … Bompas & Parr's Pineapple Island at Kew Gardens. Photographs: RBG Kew
They have brought us a scratch'n'sniff cinema and a walk-in cocktail, installed mini-golf and rowing boats on the roof of Selfridges, and built a climbable mountain of chocolate. Now "architectural foodsmiths" Bompas & Parr have unleashed their bizarre brand of flavour experience on the unlikely bucolic setting of Kew Gardens.
As part of Kew's IncrEdibles summer festival, the duo have built a floating ziggurat, topped with a giant golden pineapple, in the ornamental pond in front of the 19th-century Palm House. Wrapped in lurid Hawaiian prints, featuring fruit from the Kew archive, and surrounded by a sea of rowing boats in tutti-frutti colours, it is an arresting vision – the kind you might have if you tasted the wrong specimen in the fungi house.
"We've always had a soft spot for Kew," says Harry Parr, sitting at the helm of our vessel, paddle in hand, as he passes me a pair of kaleidoscopic spectacles – whose role will shortly become clear. "All of our work deals with flavour, and most flavours come back to a plant originally."
Delving into the archive of botanical drawings, the pair discovered the exotic forms of the durian and tarap, bullock's heart and kalaw, which now adorn the fabric walls of their floating island – as well as the jazzy uniforms of the attendants, designed in collaboration with Kit Neale.
Why the pineapple?
"As London natives, we are obsessed with pineapples in architecture," says Sam Bompas. "Take a wander around the capital and you'll see that the triumphant pineapple is a city-wide architectural motif – from the pineapples of Lambeth bridge, to the finials of St Paul's Cathedral. It is the most lauded bromeliad, the king of fruits."
Banana nirvana … rowing into the banana grotto As we paddle around the lake – which has been dyed blue for the occasion (the swans, I am assured, will not take on the tinge) – we come to the entrance of the "banana grotto" at the base of the island, signified by a plastic banana chandelier, each fruit capped with an LED. Through the rainbow specs, it looks like the gateway to a banana nirvana.
And that's exactly what lies within: a thick cloud of mist, injected with banana scent, hangs beneath a roof of yet more twinkling lights, conjuring a surreal synaesthetic tunnel of sickly sweet bliss.
Above, the levels of the ziggurat are planted with foliage that has been wired up to electrodes to form an interactive soundscape. Simulating the way plants talk to each other, says Parr, visitors can "play the flower bed," touching the leaves to produce different digital sound effects. The botanists at Kew are no strangers to elaborate experiments, but this the first time their plants have been wired up as musical instruments.
Back on dry land, the Tutti Frutti boathouse serves up a range of exotic cocktails, along with a book that delves deeper into Bompas & Parr's quaint world of culinary alchemy – featuring contributions from the likes of Pippa Middleton and Martin Parr.
The project is a brilliantly brash and surreal addition to the rest of the gardens – and must be lauded for bringing rowing boats back to Kew for the first time since 1775. But is there a bigger picture? Are Bompas & Parr architects, artists, or just novelty caterers?
'Architectural foodsmiths' … Sam Bompas and Harry Parr They started out – Parr fresh from architecture school, Bompas from the world of property PR – with an ambition to have a stall at Borough Market selling a quirky take on traditional English jelly. The antique moulds proved too expensive, so they decided to make their own – in the shape of buildings. They started 3D-printing the forms and vacuum-forming the moulds in plastic, then launched the project with an architectural jelly banquet at the London Festival of Architecture in 2008.
They went on to flood the former Sierra Leone embassy on Portland Place in London with four tonnes of punch, and have since been courted by the Barbican and ICA, the Serpentine Gallery and V&A, to conjure equally outlandish stunts.
Their latest project for Selfridges, the Mercedes Drive Thru, featured the fastest cheese-trolley in the world, capable of going from 0-62 mph in 6.6 seconds. Their chocolate climbing wall for Alton Towers included a four-tonne chocolate waterfall, flowing at a rate of 70,000 litres an hour – in which Peter Andre was forced to dangle. They are currently working on their first permanent project, a multi-sensory visitor experience for the Guinness factory in Dublin, which they say is the most scientifically refined of their scent-scapes yet.
So what next?
"I suppose we're a bit like Disney," ponders Parr. "We've built all the rides – but we would love to make the whole theme park."
美食煉金術士
Alchemist Dreams - Handmade Liqueurs from Organic Spirit › Home
www.alchemistdreams.co.uk/
Custom liqueurs, handmade from pure organic grain spirit, slowly infused with the finest fruits, herbs and spices.顧客可以定制獨特的味道，目前被嘗試過的，有薰衣草、柏香、玫瑰、咖啡、綠豆蔻，甚至四川辣椒。煉金術士的妙手調製出奇妙酒味，帶人進入奇特的夢幻世界。
顧客甚至可以要求在酒內加入紅金雞納樹皮精華，使之對紫外線光敏，為聚會增添趣味。
美食寵物師
Cake Doggy Dog: Home
Cake Doggy Dog圍繞著狗狗寵物，製作蛋糕、杯子蛋糕、蛋糕棒棒糖。顧客把自家的寵物的照片或視頻發給店主，就可以放心等待定制的3D藝術蛋糕送上門來。
蛋糕師力求捕捉每只狗狗獨特的性格和魅力，靜中有動、生機暗藏，打破蛋糕固有的裝飾、花瓶形像。店主表示，狗狗蛋糕是如此栩栩如生，讓人擔憂它會忽然舔你一口、「汪汪」兩聲。你會猶豫著不願動口，但最後還是經不住香味的誘惑大快朵頤……
美食社會學者
Stirring With Knives – a newsfeed by Caroline Hobkinson
Caroline Hobkinson的美食博客「用餐刀探尋」(Stirring with Knives)，展現出獨到的眼光，通過銳利的分析，探究食物背後的世界。
Caroline認為，食物是一種藝術的媒介；進食的儀式和舉動，反應社會和歷史的本質。人們對事物的 認知，要依靠記憶，也要依賴味覺之外的所有感官。譬如，每個人心中對生日蛋糕的印象，都是由一個不斷被強化的多感官經歷。一年一次、為你一人。昏暗的燈 光、舞動的燭光。生日歌響起，閉眼、許願。吹滅燭火——哦，一絲淡淡的煙熏的蠟燭味。切蛋糕、分享，終於嘗到了甜甜的滋味，你將它與期待、成長、幸福感一 起刻在腦中……
由此，藝術和科學，都可以通過人們的心理和感官，影響人們的進食過程，讓人們重新審視美食。
你對美食的印象，是否還停留在「味道如何」的傳統認知？快快探索倫敦的創意美食，體會美食實驗家對重新定義英國飲食界時尚的前衛嘗試。
(責編：鈴蘭)
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