2012年5月25日 星期五

Burberry

英國商業街上的氣氛或許有些沉悶，但高端風衣生產商博柏利(Burberry)的情況完全不同。歐元區可能解體，中國經濟增長可能放緩，天可能下雨，但這家奢侈品企業就像它生產的風衣一樣不懼風雨。週三，博柏利發布財報稱，它在截至3月底的這個財年的稅前收入和稅前利潤均增長了約四分之一。由於亞太地區具有品牌意識的顧客（佔銷售額的近五分之二）紛紛穿上博柏利的服裝或拎上它的手袋，其營業利潤率增加了80個基點，至16.4%。在首席執行官安吉拉•阿倫茨(Angela Ahrendts)帶領下，博柏利從批發商轉型為零售商，此舉也帶來了回報：阿倫茨在2006年就職時零售業務佔博柏利銷售額的五分之二，現在則佔了三分之二以上。博柏利的市值甚至已超過英國商業街上的連鎖商店瑪莎百貨(Marks and Spencer)。
在瑪莎百貨調低增長目標之際，博柏利仍保持增長。但是，週三投資者卻賣出了博柏利的股票，因為之前博柏利警告稱，由於批發出貨時機和資本支出的原因，本財年上半年的盈利水平將有所下降。投資者此舉可謂不得要領。不管怎麼說都應持有奢侈品股，因為亞太地區對高端品牌有著旺盛的需求。畢竟，博柏利的股價在金融危機期間觸底後便一路上漲，迄今已經漲了7倍多。不過，這也引發了不切實際的期望。事實上，投資者應當對博柏利1.8億至2億英鎊的資本支出計劃表示歡迎。這些資金將用於擴大店面、建設更大的旗艦店，更重要的是，實施數字化革新。博柏利正在世界各地擴張，覆蓋更多的奢侈品顧客，這相當明智。另外，它也不缺擴張所需的資金：儘管上年的資本支出和收購消耗了1.8億英鎊，但它仍持有3.4億英鎊淨現金。
即便如此，博柏利也應對股票遭拋售一事加以重視。投資者需小心控制自己對面向中國的企業的期望。至於博柏利，它在中國之外也能看到陽光。

Britain’s high street may be soggy but high-end trenchcoat maker Burberry is not. The eurozone can melt down, China can slow and rain can fall, but the luxury goods company is as impermeable as its wet-weather gear. Yesterday Burberry reported that revenues and profits before tax for the year to March had both risen by about a quarter. Operating margins widened 80 basis points to 16.4 per cent as brand-conscious customers in the Asia-Pacific region (making up nearly two-fifths of sales) donned its apparel or carried its bags. Burberry’s shift from wholesaler to retailer under chief executive Angela Ahrendts has paid off too: more than two-thirds of sales now come from retail versus two-fifths when she arrived in 2006. Its market capitalisation has even overtaken that of Marks and Spencer, the UK high street store chain.


As M&S moderates its growth targets, Burberry just grows. Yet investors sold the shares yesterday after it warned of lower profitability in the first half of the current year because of the timing of wholesale shipments and capital expenditure. They miss the point. By all means own luxury goods shares because of strong Asia-Pacific demand for high-end brands. Burberry shares have, after all, been a one-way bet since their financial crisis trough, rising more than eightfold. But that has created unrealistic expectations. If anything, investors should welcome Burberry’s planned £180m-£200m capex on floorspace, bigger flagship stores and, critically, digital innovation. Wisely, it is expanding to reach luxury shoppers everywhere. And it has the wherewithal: net cash of £340m, despite £180m of capex and acquisitions last year.


Even so, the group should heed the sell-off. Expectations for any China-facing company need careful management. Burberry, for its part, can see sunshine beyond China.

2012.3

Burberry倫敦時尚 台北直播
Burberry台北101旗艦店正式開幕，外觀由創意長Christopher Bailey所構思，9×5的數位電視牆播放由倫敦總部直接傳送、針對各店設計的數位內容。圖片提供／Burberry
Burberry旗艦店將販售最新全系列男女裝與配件，圖為Burberry Prorsum春夏新裝。圖片提供／Burberry
記者王瀅娟／台北報導
Burberry台北101旗艦店正式開幕，2層樓高的店面佔地約447坪，為全亞太區最大旗艦店，外牆裝設9×5公尺的巨大數位平面電視牆，直播倫敦總部直接傳送的數位內容。創意長Christopher Bailey還將於4/26開幕活動當天來台主持開幕活動。
店 內銷售全系列男女裝、配件，包括Burberry Prorsum、Burberry London、Burberry Brit與Burberry Sport，並將首度引進Burberry Home商品，是繼倫敦Knightsbridge旗艦店外第二個販售店點。去年9月入台的Burberry Beauty美妝，也將在101旗艦店內設立店中店，是全球第一家結合美妝的旗艦店。Burberry另設立Man’s Tailoring西裝駐店修改服務、2間隱密的VIP室，以提供貴客更貼心的服務。
為慶祝開幕，Burberry將推出7色鱷魚皮101限定iPhone套，限量101只，4/23起販售。


Burberry's Checked Growth

Checked Growth: How Burberry's Angela Ahrendts Is Steering the Company through a Volatile Economy







Burberry大手筆辦秀 倫敦時尚迷瘋轉播
■在大量駝色外套席捲之後，Burberry Prorsum預告橘色將帶來全新感受。 （路透）
■Burberry在倫敦皮卡迪利廣場前32公尺數位螢幕上轉播服裝秀，是時尚界前所未有的創舉。 （法新社）

記者方惠宗／綜合外電報導
英 國精品Burberry日前在倫敦2011秋冬女裝週登場。英首相夫人莎曼珊卡麥隆到場觀禮加持，更添盛會隆重。還有張曼玉、凱特柏絲沃、新生代女星瑞切 爾貝爾森等逾千名賓客光臨，活動現場氣勢驚人。不僅如此， Burberry時尚因子同步透過倫敦皮卡迪利廣場前32公尺數位螢幕直轉，帶動這座城市一整天的Burberry狂熱。
高調冬裝 色彩斑斕
Burberry 全球創意總監Christopher Bailey為Burberry Prorsum 2011年秋冬女裝帶來許多難得一見的雕花式毛毯料大衣與雙層束腰外套、針織平面外套、加大剪裁斗篷外套等，也是一大重點。然而，在英式復古與雙面復古軋 別丁等布料下，看到橘色、白色、正紅色、覆盆子色等，從大自然取材的天然色調，冬裝也很盎然。
Christopher Bailey不但負責設計所有Burberry系列產品，還肩負廣告藝術指導、建築設計、多媒體內容與品牌整體形象。他們這次在倫敦著名的皮卡迪利廣場前轉播服裝秀，本季預估每週吸引120萬人觀看。
隨看隨買 7週內送貨全球
全球消費者也可透過Burberry.com以及iPhone與iPad上，觀看到這場服裝秀，並立即於服裝秀結束後一週內，購買伸展台上的各款服裝，在7週內送貨到全球的消費者手上。
此外，消費者可利用iTunes上的隨選服務技術，在Burberry.com下載服裝秀音樂。
Burberry一次大秀，寫下多項時尚產業創舉。




Burberry Group plc (LSE: BRBY) is a British luxury fashion house, manufacturing clothing, fragrance, and fashion accessories. Its distinctive tartan pattern has become one of its most widely copied trademarks. Burberry is most famous for its iconic trench coat, which was invented by founder Thomas Burberry. The company has branded stores and franchises around the world, and also sells through concessions in third-party stores. HM Queen Elizabeth II and HRH The Prince of Wales have granted the company Royal Warrants. The Chief Creative Officer is Christopher Bailey. The company is listed on the London Stock Exchange and is a constituent of the FTSE 100 Index.
Contents

History


1908 Burberry's advertisement[2]

A ladies' Burberry handbag in the company's trademarked check pattern

Early years, 19th century

Burberry was founded in 1856 when 21-year-old Thomas Burberry, a former draper's apprentice, opened his own store in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England.[3] By 1870, the business had established itself by focusing on the development of outdoors attire.[3] In 1880, Burberry introduced in his brand the gabardine, a hardwearing, water-resistant yet breathable fabric, in which the yarn is waterproofed before weaving.[3] Burberry was the original name, but then the company soon switched to using the name Burberrys, after many customers from around the world began calling it Burberrys of London. This name is still visible on many older Burberry products. In 1891, Burberry opened a shop in the Haymarket, London, which still exists and until recently was the site of Burberry’s corporate headquarters. Now the headquarters are at Horseferry House just behind Houses of Parliament, Westminster (London).

20th century

In 1901, the Burberry Equestrian Knight Logo was developed containing the Latin word "Prorsum", meaning forwards, and registered as a trademark.[3] In 1911 they became the outfitters for Roald Amundsen,[3] the first man to reach the South Pole, and Ernest Shackleton, who led a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica. A Burberry gabardine jacket was worn by George Mallory on his ill-fated attempt on Mount Everest in 1924.
In 1914 Burberry was commissioned by the War Office to adapt its officer's coat to suit the conditions of contemporary warfare, resulting in the "trench coat".[3] After the war, the trench coat became popular with civilians. The iconic Burberry check was created in the 1920s and used as a lining in its trench coats.[3]
Burberry also specially designed aviation garments. A. E. Clouston and Mrs Betsy Kirby Green made the fastest flying time to Cape Town from London in 1937 and were sponsored by Burberry.

Recent history

Burberry was an independent company until 1955, when it was taken over by Great Universal Stores (GUS). Burberry Group plc was initially floated on the London Stock Exchange in July 2002.[4] GUS divested its remaining interest in Burberry in December 2005.[5]
In 2006 Rose Marie Bravo, who as Chief Executive had led Burberry to mass market success, retired.[6] She was replaced by current CEO Angela Ahrendts.
Burberry first began selling online in the US, followed by the UK in October 2006, and the rest of the EU in 2007.[7]

UK image and revitalisation

During the 1970s, the brand became popular with the British casual cult, leading to it to being associated with chavs and members of football firms by the 1990s.[8][9] Such a shift in a brand's clientele exemplifies prole drift.
However, Burberry has attempted to rebrand itself with advertisements in GQ, Esquire, Vogue, Tatler and Harper's Bazaar, and is well-known for using British celebrities in its advertising, including models Kate Moss, Agyness Deyn and Lily Donaldson, singer George Craig, and actress Emma Watson, who was named the face of Burberry's 2009 Fall/Winter campaign and the cover model for the 2010 Spring/Summer campaign. [10][11]

Brands

Burberry operates under 5 brands:[12]
  • Burberry London: The primary brand, used for the vast majority of products
  • Burberry Brit
  • Burberry Prorsum
  • Burberry Sport
  • Thomas Burberry

Stores

There are many Burberry stores around the world, which are listed below [13]

Africa

Egypt
South Africa

Asia

China
Guam
Hong Kong


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