2013年7月22日 星期一

Club to Catwalk: London fashion in the 80s remembered

Club to Catwalk
As the V&A unveils its Club to Catwalk exhibition, those who were there recall 80s club culture. 'Dress fancy, not fancy dress,' that was the mantra. Princess Julia and Scarlett Cannon remember the nights out, while others remember how the clothes were constructed. It was a time for embracing a different kind of culture, for dancing and being yourself. As designer Joe Casely-Hayford says: 'It was a time for outsiders'

Club to Catwalk: London fashion in the 80s remembered

A new show at the V&A celebrates the creativity of the 80s clubbing and fashion scenes in London. We find out what inspired the decade's cool kids
The Cloth, Summer Summit, 1985
The Cloth, Summer Summit, 1985 – from Club to Catwalk: London fashion in the 80s at the V&A. Photograph: Anirta Corbin
Shoulderpads, leotards and big hair, the 80s certainly contributed some style clangers. But as Club to Catwalk, a new exhibition at the V & A shows, it was also a period of creativity, eccentricity and outlandish looks. From that London scene of designers, musicians, artists and club kids, the current creative establishment – Vivienne Westwood, Stephen Jones, Nick Knight – emerged. We asked those who were there about dressing up, making images and dancing till dawn.

Sue Tilley on Leigh Bowery

"If you had never seen Leigh, you wouldn't believe he existed. One day he'd wear a pleated kilt and a Chanel-style jacket, the next a one-piece in PVC. When we first started going out to Taboo, it didn't take him long to get ready. Then he started doing things like glueing down one eye. He drunk a lot of vodka because what he wore was so uncomfortable. I often wonder what he would be doing now. Leigh was one of the first people to go from the underground to being notorious, and to be painted by Lucian Freud. It was very hard to sell what he did, though – it wasn't like he was a pop star, his whole life was a performance."
Sue Tilley is a writer and civil servant

Simon Foxton on styling

"The jacket that I have in the V&A exhibition is a customised one that I got from Kensington Market. I added the patches – a lot are from Flip, the vintage store in Covent Garden, and from Camden. It's how I style – putting things together. I graduated from St Martins in 1983 and had my own label called Bazooka. At that time, clubs were about dressing up. It wasn't like anyone went out to get a job specifically, but there was a network of people. I started working with Nick Knight around 1984 or 85 and we clicked. We're still working together 30 years later."
Simon Foxton is a stylist who works for i-D, GQ Style and V magazine

Katharine Hamnett on the slogan T-shirt

"We were on a roll with the clothes and I thought I couldn't throw it away. There were a lot of issues that needed to be addressed – we felt with Thatcher in power that we didn't have a voice. The first T-shirt, 'Choose Life', was in 1983. That was followed by 'Save the Sea' and '58% Don't Want Pershing'. I wore that one to meet Thatcher in 1984. I had it under my coat and then revealed it when I shook her hand. She squawked like a chicken. Slogan T-shirts are still powerful – you can't not read them, they stay in your head."
Katherine Hamnett is a designer
'Blitz' denim jacket by Vivienne Westwood 'Blitz' denim jacket customised by Vivienne Westwood, 1986. From Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 80s. Photograph: © V&A Images

Iain R Webb on the Blitz denim jacket project

"I was fashion editor at Blitz magazine in 1986, and had the idea for a shoot with different designers creating denim jackets. The founders of Blitz thought we could make it bigger so we did a show at the Albany theatre. Each designer chose their model. You had Rifat Ozbek with Tina Chow, Paul Smith had Curiosity Killed the Cat. A young Daniel Day-Lewis read out an article by me on Jean Muir in a Jean Muir jacket. Simon Doonan at Barneys heard about the show and they did their own version in New York later that year. Andy Warhol, Basquiat and Keith Haring designed the jackets and Iman and Madonna modelled them."
Iain R Webb is a writer and consultant for the Fashion Museum in Bath

Princess Julia on clubs

"Blitz Club set the precedent for the 80s – it ended in 1980 and other nights popped up. Cha Chas at Heaven started, then Taboo in 1984, around the time Leigh Bowery came to London. Then there was the WAG – I was the cashier girl. It was soul and funk, James Brown. The Mud Club was Philip Sallon's and Mark Moore DJed. The music was eclectic – Afrika Bambaataa and also European dance music. A lot of these clubs were quite short-lived – we didn't really think about the long term. At the start, it was about DIY but by 1987-88, the designer label became the most important thing."
Princess Julia is a DJ
Bodymap, A/W 1984 Bodymap, A/W 1984, modelled by Scarlett Cannon, 1985. From Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 80s. Photograph: Monica Curtin

Terry Jones on i-D

"In 1978, I worked on a book called Not Another Punk Book that used street style. I was keen to do more so when the opportunity to do another magazine came up, I thought that would be a good way to go. That was i-D. We did the straight-up idea from the first issue in 1980. The original landscape format was because the street is wide and diverse and we wanted the format to reflect that. The newsagents hated it, though, so we changed it – we had Sade on the cover of the first portrait issue, then Madonna."
Terry Jones is the founder of i-D

Toyah Willcox on the pop wardrobe

"Melissa Caplan made my costumes from the 70s to the mid-80s. I was very influenced by futurism and reading a lot of Marge Piercy. Look and image were very important – there was already incredible pressure to look feminine and sexy but I wanted to look individual and strong. I didn't have any role models except Little Nell from The Rocky Horror Picture Show. I remember stepping out on to the stage in 1981 at Hammersmith Odeon and seeing row after row of people looking identical. Every image I created was like setting a fire off in someone's mind."
Toyah Willcox is a singer and actor

Pam Hogg on the DIY aesthetic

"I was going out every night and there was nothing in the shops that I wanted to buy, so I made what I wanted to wear. I used Lycra and developed a technique of intercutting to form patterns without printing. I still use it today. The jacket I have in the exhibition is from my 1989 Warrior Queen collection. The leather is studded with crosses and chains as Joan of Arc was the inspiration behind it. I made it entirely by hand and it's the only one there is. I wore it on the Wogan show in 1990 just before the V&A purchased it for its archives."
Pam Hogg is a designer and DJ
David Walls, Leigh Bowery and Trojan at Camden Palace, London, 1984 David Walls, Leigh Bowery and Trojan at Camden Palace, London, 1984. From Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 80s. Photograph: Michael Costiff

Jeffrey Hinton on capturing the scene

"I started to take pictures and make films because I was in love with my world. I worked on everything from the club visuals for Taboo, to filming Michael Clark's early performances and the Bodymap fashion shows. I went through all the different formats and each had their own quality. I kept everything and I went from being a hoarder to having an archive. The films in the V&A show are poignant because a lot of the people in them died of Aids. I had 46 films that I only developed recently because it was hard to look at images of this time. I have dedicated the films to my lost friends."
Jeffrey Hinton is a film-maker and DJ

Chris Sullivan on St Martins

"I was at St Martins from 1979-82. Stephen Jones, John Galliano and Sade were there at the same time. I did fashion design but I was terrible at sewing. I also put on the WAG club and Hell with Steve Strange. St Martins students formed the creative bulk of the crowd because we had time to make the outfits. I dressed up as Bertie Wooster one week, then a less handsome Rudolph Valentino. As a college, St Martins was a bit rubbish, but all Britain's creatives were drawn there. All of us to the last were on grants. In today's system, none of us would be there."
Chris Sullivan is a writer and the founder of the WAG club
Club to Catwalk: London fashion in the 80s is at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London SW7 until 16 February 2014

倫敦時尚: 學習八零好榜樣

更新時間 2013年 7月 22日, 星期一 - 格林尼治標準時間10:07
倫敦V&A美術館名為」Club to Catwalk」的展覽
倫敦V&A美術館名為」Club to Catwalk」的展覽,縮影了八十年代街頭最流行的穿著打扮
日前倫敦V&A美術館名為」Club to Catwalk」的展覽,縮影了八十年代街頭最流行的穿著打扮。當時倫敦的夜店是讓年輕人創造力迸發的地方,他們的造型天馬行空。
那時活躍在倫敦著名俱樂部BLITZ的DJ朱麗亞(Princess Julia)說,當時我們是「穿得時髦,而不是穿時髦的衣服」。
八十年代在「復古」正當道的今天,幾乎「被遺忘」。但如果提到黛安娜王妃的禮帽,卻無人不曉。設計師瓊斯(Stephen Jones)八十年代在俱樂部BLITZ將他的設計思想發揮至極,當時著名歌手喬治男孩(Boy Geroge)的帽子也是出自他之手。
直到現在,許多當紅的奢侈品牌依然「非他莫屬」,這些品牌中就包括加利亞諾(John Galliano)和維斯武德(Vivienne Westwood)。
這位英國設計師說:「當時的街頭時尚和時裝界根本沒有交集,也沒有真正被承認。」然而八零時代的夜店卻 讓這些「門外漢」有了展示的舞台,設計師海爾福德(Joe Casely-Hayford)說:「在這裏,你可以聽到在收音機里根本找不到的音樂,身著奇裝異服的年輕人湊在一起勁舞。」
那個時代的年輕人思想沒有束縛、無所畏懼。追求個性就是當時時尚的最高境界。「我們買二手衣服,自己加新元素在衣服上。」DJ和視覺藝術家辛頓(Jeffrey Hinton)娓娓道來:「當時我們互相換衣服穿,不同的組合在每個人身上都穿出不一樣的效果。」
對審美的評判標凖就更不必說。百分百追隨時裝雜誌上的明星街拍,維多利亞愛不釋手的香奈兒風靡全世界; 被Anne Hathaway、Beyonce和Miranda Kerr等明星鐘愛的isabel marant內增高鞋,雷哈娜鐘愛的惡搞衛衣等等,一旦被識破,第二天肯定賣脫銷。
模特凱濃(Scarlett Cannon)為每周末的夜店聚會改變髮型
模特凱濃(Scarlett Cannon)為每周末的夜店聚會改變髮型
「當時想要進入夜店,造型平凡都會有被拒門外的危險。」瓊斯說。很多年輕人每周二就開始為周末去夜店的服裝絞盡腦汁,模特凱濃(Scarlett Cannon)回憶說:「我每天都讓自己有新的髮型,有個十字架樣式的髮型其實是我的真頭髮,很多人卻不知道。」
這樣的風潮造就了倫敦「Taboo」夜店驚世駭俗的雷夫·波維瑞(Leigh Bowery)。他穿著稀奇古怪的洋娃娃睡衣、或是蘇格蘭裙子下面露出內褲花邊……讓這家夜店很快成為當時倫敦最酷的夜店,吸引著歌星、明星、時裝設計 師、模特。他的塗白小丑臉、香腸嘴和讓油彩流下來等等舞台戲劇化造型,一直讓設計師們「膜拜」到現在。
反觀之,加利亞諾(John Galliano)在個人品牌2003年春夏採用誇張油彩妝;麥昆(Alexander McQueen)2009秋冬千鳥格主打、New Look輪廓、奧黛麗赫本的著裝風格,女模特們塗的又是香腸嘴;克希霍夫(Meadham Kirchhoff)2013春夏女裝的戲劇造型在倫敦時裝周雖鶴立雞群,但他坦言,自己是受到「Taboo」夜店的影響,並從中汲取了任意混搭的洛可可 風格、和塑造戲劇的cosplay造型。