離天堂那麼近─英國經典教堂巡禮

Norman Shutters 歐美豪宅必備頂級窗簾通風採光視野隱私兼顧打造健康生活品味

德倫大教堂東側的迴廊，電影《哈利波特》曾來此取景，作為魔法學校的一景。

佇立世間已超過800年寒暑的劍橋圓形教堂。

看完北側的五姊妹窗，記得移步到西側的彩繪花窗，找找看「約克之心」在哪裡？

晨霧中的林肯大教堂更顯得莊嚴祥和。

撰文˙攝影／楊黛瑩

人間，何處離天堂最近？有人認為是世界最高峰的山巔，而我的答案是教堂。玩過歐洲的人應該對每座城市皆有教堂印象深刻，教堂，在古時歐洲是政治中心與信仰依歸。英國遍佈各城市的教堂，每座都具備不容時空遞嬗而抹滅的存在意義、暗藏不少世界之最－來自歷代宗教及權力爭鬥上的風起雲湧，對藝術性的考究、在建築技術上的登峰造極等，英國的教堂都有來頭、也有看頭。
拜訪教堂，是每到一個英國城市就必排入行程的儀式。從氣勢恢弘的門口到莊嚴的中殿、從埋藏歷史陳跡的地下室到接近雲端的教堂頂，教堂讓旅人大開眼界、引領人讀懂這國度的精彩故事，不論是信仰上的、或信仰以外的……。
曾是世界屋頂林肯大教堂
「比埃及金字塔還要高！」在英國BBC一篇介紹英國大教堂的網站專文中，曾如此形容它。的確，在遙遠的1300年、林肯大教堂是有史以來第一座被譽為「世界上最高建築」的建築，直到1549年塔頂坍塌未再重修，才失掉此頭銜。幾年前，改編自暢銷小說的電影《達文西密碼》因倫敦西敏寺拒絕借拍，遂改來此取景，喚起世人對身為英國第四大郡的林肯郡的注目，也吸引遊客前此朝聖。
林肯郡是山城，可能是地勢影響，早晨抵達林肯火車站後，步行穿過城堡前往教堂的一路上都是薄霧。霧中走過中古歐洲風的街道，踏進中世紀時曾是世界第一高樓的大教堂，陽光露臉了，內部南北翼的玫瑰窗與東側大片彩繪玻璃窗瞬時亮起來，瑰麗光彩震懾人心。我在林肯大教堂留下最多的，是目睹大片壯麗花窗時的讚嘆。
雖早已非世界第一高，但林肯大教堂是英國第三大教堂，更是對遊客相當友善的一間教堂－教堂從裡到外，每處都歡迎拍照、義工導覽的場次也多－樓面導覽每天早上11點與下午2點各有一場，無非希望來者感受宗教及建築藝術性的強大。本想最多在此停留一個多小時，最後卻花了兩倍時間才依依不捨地走出來。如果在每年4～10月英國天氣較好的時節造訪，不妨參與每週六下午舉行的季節限定高塔導覽（Roof Tours），嘗嘗爬上338階後，站上中世紀世界第一高樓的感受吧！
華麗扇形穹頂國王學院教堂
人間四月天，拜訪劍橋。行程中除了撐長篙迎春風划過康河，在三一學院外牆看見傳說中的牛頓蘋果樹等插曲令人陶醉外，境內兩座教堂的美與特殊，也叫人難忘。首先造訪國王學院教堂（King’s College Chapel），康河畔的國王學院堪稱劍橋地標、更是世人對於劍橋浮現的第一印象。國王學院教堂被譽為晚期哥德式建築典範，於英國國王亨利六世在位時的 1446年開始建造、直到亨利九世任內、耗費逾一世紀才完工。
參觀此教堂，請做好頭昏眼花的準備－難忘邊走邊頭頸發痠充血的感覺，就只為直盯挑高24公尺、從1512年起耗時3年才建好，全世界最大面積的扇形穹頂（Fan Vault）。穹頂華麗繁複、美得令人心驚的完美對稱雕工，讓人眼花撩亂。仰首於鬼斧神工、高聳衝天的穹頂，世人欲傳達給天父的讚頌與景仰之心，不言可喻。另一眼花的參觀重點，是穹頂下的彩繪玻璃窗。保存精良且佔幅廣大的彩繪玻璃，熬過英國內戰與二次世界大戰兩度戰火卻安然無恙，據傳是兩次戰爭時都被有心人拆解另存、戰火終了後又逐一拼回，如今才能呈現於世人眼前。
在校區內行至橋街（Bridge Street）轉角，一座老舊圓頂建築映入眼簾，勾起好奇心趨前探究竟。隨手取門口的參觀簡介一看，才驚知它是世上目前僅存4座圓形教堂之一，當地人俗稱「Round Church」的劍橋圓形教堂。圓形教堂本名「The Church of the Holy Sepulchre」──中文譯作「聖墓穴教堂」，因為比擬耶路撒冷聖墓穴教堂的圓弧造型仿築而成，故得名。絕大多數教堂的平面結構是十字型，但這座呈罕見的圓形，在劍橋看了許多氣勢恢弘、哥德式風格的學院後，不妨前來小巧古老的圓形教堂開眼界。
千年信仰中心德倫大教堂
已故知名藝術與建築歷史學家Nikolaus Pevsner在傳世名著《英格蘭建築》裡曾盛讚位於英格蘭東北部德倫（Durham），認為這城市絕對是欣賞與理解歐洲建築者眼中的偉大經驗。
座落於德倫中心的德倫大教堂（Durham Cathedral），其教堂、連同城堡與修道院均堅實地築於岩石上，在Nikolaus心中，唯有法國阿維農與捷克布拉格才可與之齊名。德倫大教堂主教堂於1093年起建造，歷時40年才竣工。屹立於世接近千年，已登錄為世界遺產，被公認是全英保留最完整的羅曼式建築。從英格蘭中部搭火車，約2小時抵達德倫，一出火車站，便見到奠基於岩石上的教堂，以守護者之姿，居高臨下地守護德倫市中心。在靜謐昏暗的主教堂內參觀，解說員告訴我們，這教堂曾被英國人票選為最愛的建築，免門票且幾乎天天開放，每年平均60萬人次造訪。若你是《哈利波特》電影迷，記得去走走曾為電影場景之一的教堂迴廊，作個在魔法學校與哈利波特當同學的幻想。
教堂內有多間保存完好的古老禮拜堂及圖書館，一旁還有同樣免費參觀的德倫城堡－建於1072年、曾是歷代德倫主教的居所，看完教堂後可順路拜訪。該城堡1840年起劃分給德倫大學作宿舍與食堂之用，約有100多名德倫大學在校學生以此城堡為家。此區往昔是信仰及戰略的重要守護重地，如今仍是當地虔誠信仰基督者的心之歸屬，同時是飄散濃厚學術風的重鎮。
拜見哥德式之美約克大教堂
每天約有25班直達火車班次從倫敦駛往約克，車程近2小時，約克是相當容易到達的英格蘭北方城市。約克大教堂（York Minster）就在出了約克火車站後向左一望就可及的位置，步行即達，免費參觀。
約克大教堂是北歐洲第二大的哥德式教堂，教堂主塔直逼63公尺、略矮的西塔也有53公尺高。站在其腳下，剎時感覺自己的渺小與天空之高闊，挑高削長的哥德式建築，最能表達人類嚮往天國的情感。除了個頭高、約克大教堂平面佔幅也長達158公尺，所以要拿一般相機拍下約克大教堂的全部，是不可能的任務！不過，光是聚焦於雕工繁複的拱型門口，或特寫教堂尖塔與精緻的玫瑰窗，甚至拉長手抬高鏡頭為青天與教堂高大的側身來一張仰角照，雖非全景可都很壯觀。
看多了英國教堂最富特色的彩繪玻璃，可以換換口味，在約克大教堂北翼盡頭看見一扇僅有灰、綠兩色幾何玻璃交錯拼貼的大花窗－這是「五姊妹窗」（Five Sisters Window），完工於1250年，一個彩繪玻璃在英國還是奢侈舶來品的年代。超過10萬片的玻璃，沒有炫目的五顏六色，只有單調的灰與綠，這是此教堂內現存最古老的一扇玻璃窗，如今被視作紀念在二次的世界大戰中喪生女性們的一扇象徵。約克大教堂的建築以視覺震撼人心，但無法被拍成影像的「聲音」，則是令旅人陶醉的一絕－此教堂鐘聲每15 分鐘就響一遍，從火車站一路走進，特別是穿過鄰近的中古風情老街「肉舖街」時，就能隱約聽見教堂鐘聲清脆悅耳地從老街穿透出來，綿長不斷。幸運的我，選在下午造訪教堂，五點多參觀完走出門，門裡竟傳出唱詩班合唱晚禱（Evensong），那一刻，夕陽餘暉伴隨鐘聲，與聖潔優美的歌聲齊揚，讓我彷彿置身天堂！

旅遊資訊
◆ 航班：可搭長榮前往倫敦。
◆ 簽證：免簽證。
◆ 時差：3～10月，英國比台灣慢7小時；11～2月慢8小時。
◆ 匯率：1英磅約換新台幣47元。
◆ 相關資訊洽詢：英國境內的大教堂幾乎都有官網，列有歷史沿革、開放時間、特殊活動、參觀重點、週邊景點、前往方式及地圖等實用資訊，出發前不妨參考：
1. 林肯大教堂: http://lincolncathedral.com/。
2. 劍橋國王學院教堂: http://www.kings.cam.ac.uk/chapel/。
3. 德倫大教堂: http://www.durhamcathedral.co.uk/。
4. 約克大教堂: http://www.yorkminster.org/。
◆ 從倫敦到其他城市交通：
建議從倫敦搭乘火車前往，較可掌握班次與通車時間，中部城市單程車程約2～3小時；往北部城市則約3～4小時。越早訂票越有機會得到計畫旅遊的優待票價，若是全職學生身分或年齡在26歲以下，可準備大頭照、有效學生證或入學許可信、護照，至火車站相關窗口填申請表辦理「16-25 Railcard」，憑此証購票可享優待。英國國鐵官網: http://www.nationalrail.co.uk/。

The cathedrals of England, History, Hogwarts and houses of God

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The cathedrals of England (1979)

Author: Clifton-Taylor, Alec
Subject: Cathedrals
Publisher: [London] : Thames and Hudson
Possible copyright status: NOT_IN_COPYRIGHT
Language: English
Digitizing sponsor: Google
Book from the collections of: Harvard University
Collection: americana

Full catalog record: MARCXML

This book has an editable web page on Open Library.

A Point of View: History, Hogwarts and houses of God

(Clockwise) Vaulted ceiling of Exeter Cathedral; Gloucester Cathedral; St Paul's Cathedral in Melbourne, Australia; St Paul's Cathedral in London

In the run-up to Easter, David Cannadine looks at a selection of the world's cathedrals and the important contribution that they have made to the broader lives of their respective cities and countries.

Perhaps it's because Easter's been approaching, or maybe it's just coincidence, but either way, there's been quite a bit of news lately about cathedrals, though it's not been very cheerful.
A few weeks ago, it was reported that what was left of Christchurch Cathedral in New Zealand, which had been badly damaged in an earthquake last year, would have to be demolished. Built in the second half of the 19th Century, the cathedral had long been an essential part of the Christchurch cityscape and community, and the announcement that the surviving shell was too unsafe to be restored was greeted with widespread and understandable dismay.

Earthquake-damaged Christchurch Cathedral in New Zealand

Christchurch Cathedral in New Zealand was damaged by an earthquake in 2011

And just a few days ago, it was reported that England's cathedrals are finding it increasingly hard to make ends meet, even when they charge for admission. Running costs amount to thousands of pounds a week, and serious restoration, of the roof, the windows, or the stonework, can run into tens of millions of pounds.
These rather gloomy tidings were much in my mind when I recently went to Exeter to deliver a lecture at the university. With time to spare beforehand, I paid a visit to the cathedral, which was, like so many of its kind, a combination of comforting familiarity and breathtaking surprise.
There's a homely and attractive cathedral close, and a welcoming if slightly unprepossessing west front. But that's no preparation for the spectacular view which opens up once you go in: a high and heady vault running the whole length of the nave and the choir, constructed in the most elaborate Decorated style of the early 14th Century.
It's a glorious vista, lifting the eye and the spirit heavenwards; and it's easy to see why the great architectural historian, Nikolaus Pevsner, included Exeter Cathedral as one of his twelve favourite English buildings.

Find out more

A Point of View, with David Cannadine, is on Fridays on Radio 4 at 20:50 GMT and repeated Sundays, 08:50 GMT
David Cannadine is a British historian, author and professor of history at Princeton University

If, like me, you're an historian by trade, there are many good reasons for visiting our cathedrals. The monuments, as on the walls at Exeter - to civic worthies, aristocratic neighbours, and local regiments - are a vivid reminder of the important part that has been played, and is played today, by cathedrals in the broader lives of their cities and counties.

And because I had the chance to listen to the Exeter choir, which was rehearsing for evensong, I was also reminded of the essential contribution that cathedrals have made, and still make, to the ancient and modern musical culture of their communities.
Edward Elgar may have lamented that he grew up poor and provincial in 19th Century Worcester, but because the cathedral was the focus of a vibrant and vigorous musical life, including the Three Choirs Festival held in collaboration with Hereford and Gloucester, it was in fact an ideally nurturing and encouraging environment for an aspiring composer.
Along with churches, castles and country houses, cathedrals are among our greatest architectural glories, and I suppose we all have our favourites among them. Perhaps Salisbury - unrivalled for its soaring spire and the grace and beauty of its setting, immortalized in the paintings of John Constable.

“Start Quote

Along with churches, castles and country houses, cathedrals are among our greatest architectural glories”

Or perhaps Gloucester, with its exquisite fan vaulted cloisters that have become familiar, as part of Hogworts School, to millions of people through the Harry Potter films.

Or perhaps Durham, standing high and strong on the city skyline, close by the castle - sacred power and secular power side by side, and often fleetingly glimpsed by travellers from the windows of the London to Edinburgh train.
As these examples suggest, we tend to think that the construction of cathedrals had ended by the 16th Century, and that Sir Christopher Wren's subsequent re-building of St Paul's in London was the exception that proved the rule.
And it's certainly true that when many of England's great industrial cities were given Anglican bishoprics, they often took over a large parish church and re-named it a cathedral, as in the case of Newcastle, Manchester, my home town of Birmingham, and also nearby Coventry.

Gloucester Cathedral doubled as a film set for the Harry Potter film franchise

But that's far from being the whole of the story, for, in many ways, the 19th Century was a great age of cathedral construction, including St Chad's Roman Catholic Cathedral in Birmingham, designed by Augustus Welby Pugin, and St Mary's Episcopal Cathedral in Edinburgh, by George Gilbert Scott.
And in the aftermath of the Restoration of the Catholic hierarchy and diocesan structure in England and Wales by Pope Pius IX, many new Catholic cathedrals were constructed, culminating in the building of Westminster Cathedral in the Byzantine style, consecrated in 1910.
If we look further afield, to what was then the rapidly expanding British Empire, the 19th and early 20th Centuries were something of a golden age for the construction of Anglican cathedrals. From Toronto to Calcutta, Cape Town to Cairo, Hong Kong to Singapore, the British built churches wherever they went.

“Start Quote

Great Anglican churches are among the most enduring legacies of Britain's once far-flung realms”

One of my favourites is St Paul's Cathedral, Melbourne. Designed in the Gothic revival style by the English architect William Butterfield, it's diagonally opposite Flinders Street railway station, and thus at the very heart of the city.

Another is the Cathedral Church of the Redemption, in New Delhi, which was constructed between 1927 and 1931 as part of Sir Edwin Lutyens's master plan for the new capital of the Raj.
Indeed, it's no exaggeration to say that these great Anglican churches are among the most enduring legacies of Britain's once far-flung realms, and when Jan Morris brought her imperial trilogy to a close, in Farewell the Trumpets, it was with an account of an evensong service in a cathedral of the old empire.
By the late 19th Century, new Anglican cathedrals were also being built back in England, beginning with Truro, designed by John Loughborough Pearson, and once again in the Gothic revival style, on which work was begun in 1880.

Find out more

St Pauls Cathedral engulfed in smoke during attacks of the German Luftwaffe on London in 1940

Two decades later, a competition was held to select the architect for the new Liverpool Cathedral, and it was won by the 22-year-old Giles Gilbert Scott, who was the grandson of George Gilbert Scott. It turned out to be an unhappy commission: the construction of the building, which was once again in the Gothic style, was fraught with difficulty, and was interrupted during both World Wars.

When Scott died in 1960, Liverpool Cathedral was still unfinished, and it would only be completed nearly 20 years later. Nor did Scott fare any better with Coventry, whose cathedral had been horrifically damaged in a German bombing raid in November 1940. Once peace had returned, he was invited to design a new building, but his highly traditional Gothic scheme was deemed inappropriate for the brave new post-war world.
The project was then thrown open to a full-scale architectural competition. The winner was a young man named Basil Spence, and his cathedral was an imaginative and exciting mixture of the traditional and the modern.
The shapes and spaces and configurations, of the nave, the choir and the sanctuary, were very familiar, but Spence also ensured that the cathedral was a showcase of contemporary British art, including Graham Sutherland's tapestry of Christ in Glory, John Piper's Baptistry Window, and Jacob Epstein's statue of St Michael and the Devil.

Coventry Cathedral was conceived "in a spirit of peace and hope"

In recognition, but also in defiance, of the death and destruction wrought during World War II, Coventry's new cathedral was conceived from the outset in a spirit of peace and hope, reconciliation and resurrection, and to that end, Benjamin Britten was commissioned to compose a War Requiem, first performed soon after the building was consecrated, which was exactly fifty years ago, in the spring of 1962.
Like so many of our cathedrals, Coventry is an extraordinary and exhilarating place to visit, for it is, and yet it is not, a quintessentially 60s building: both of its time, yet also unique. Norman Tebbit once claimed that the 1960s was a third rate decade, full of third rate minds, which were (among other things) smug, wet, sanctimonious, naïve, guilt-ridden and insufferable.
Like the rest of us, he's entitled to his point of view, but a decade which produced Coventry Cathedral was far from being all wrong or all bad. And its abiding message, of peace and hope, of reconciliation and resurrection, is surely a good and noble one at any time, and especially at Easter time.